Climbing Log

Quite a lot happened since last post! Been to Brookes a couple of times with little success at anything I've been trying to do. Failed miserably at a 6C that I've been trying and have pretty much realised that it is out of my league at the moment. Bit of a shame, but it is very crimpy which isn't really my style (read weak). I'll work on it though. Definitely want to be at that level before too long, especially as I want to climb 7A within a year.

OUMC stuff has been great though! Went to Brookes with some other OUMC members, and they are all really cool. Also went to Iffley with a bunch of them. Was also really cool, was able to do more with a bit of guidance about what problems are good. There is a lot of interesting stuff concealed in a pretty small wall.

More amazingly, went on my first Trad meet on Sunday! We were at Stanage. Was absolutely freezing, but no rain, so good for climbing. Would have been perfect without the wind... I only seconded routes this time round, as I felt I needed to get used to the style before trying to lead. Gritstone climbs are massively different from indoor climbs and it took a little while to get used to removing gear from the cracks, but I think I'll pick up the technique(s) alright with a bit of practise.

Didn't catch many of the names of the routes I seconded, but we did about seven. Started on a VS which was apparently very typical of gritstone style. Was a little bit of a culture shock really, but very cool. Then moved onto 'The Right Unconquerable' which is a classic route. Seconded this with a little trouble at the top, but was still pretty pleased to do it. My partner fell off on the top move before sending it, so I didn't mind fluffing it a bit myself. After that did a bunch more routes generally at VS or HVS, which was cool.

  The Right Unconquerable

Was a great introduction to trad, looking forward to going again and learning to lead. After seconding 'The Right Unconquerable' I really want to lead it. Was a very cool route. 'The Left Unconquerable' (climber in the picture is on this) also looked amazing (and well protected) and maybe could be a long term target for first E1...

That’s pretty much it for now! Starting a rope works course on Thursday which I think will be really useful. Oh, and turns out I can't go to Bristol to do the competition on the 8th Nov, as I have a tutorial that Saturday. Shame, but at least won't have to miss an outdoor meet because of tutes...

I am now a member of the Oxford University Mountaineering Club! Very happy about this, will mean many more oportunities to climb as much as I want.

Went down to Iffley bouldering on monday and it looked pretty good with a lot of potential! Still impressed on me the need to improve my bouldering and also that bouldering is best as a social sport... Iffley looks like the kind of place where a few people working together would give the best results.

Also went to meet people from the club last night in a pub in Oxford. Was very cool, and paid a cheque for the first meet which is trad in Stanage, 19th. Really looking forward to that.

Going to go climbing with some people from the club in Brookes tonight. Meeting more people is good, will give me the chance to climb much more then when dependant on only one partner. We'll see how it goes...

Pretty successful climbing today! Spent about four hours at Brookes climbing wall, although unfortunately time spent climbing was relatively short. Lots of belaying and watching...

The time I did spend climbing was good though. I started with gentle bouldering and an easy lead route (5 something) to warm up. Then I red pointed two 6Cs, both of which I had only tried once before. Feel pretty pleased with them individually, but more glad to get two at once as this might suggest a bit of an improvement in my endurance. I’m not sure if I’ve cleanly climbed two 6Cs on the same day before, as much as I hate to admit that...

The 6Cs themselves were nice routes, the first being a bit more powerful with a cool crossover move over an overhang, and the second one (on a vertical wall) was fingertips the whole way up, with a few two finger holds and one mono. A few slightly deeper holds helped it go. I was pleased to get this one in its own right as my finger strength has been a bit poor recently, and the climb was all fingery. It felt good today though.

After this I put some work into the 7A I’m trying (slopers/pinches big reaches). I made one move further then I had before, but the next move was a struggle. Will take a bit more time to work out how it goes. I think next time I’ll skip this move, because it looks easier higher. Be interesting to see whether its just this one move I can’t do.

Finished with a 6B (the ex6C I thought should have been downgraded) which was fine.

Looking forward to next time, and looking forward to trying out Iffley in maybe a week... I think next time I’ll try and climb more routes although this does depend on my partner (‘s speed). It would be good to do a bunch (6 or 7?) around 6B/6B+. Helpful for endurance anyway, and I really didn’t do enough routes today...